Wednesday, October 25, 2017

CROATIA - FINAL THOUGHTS

  Croatia is a beautiful country, with a huge variety of terrain, mountains, woodland, forests, stunning waterfalls, azure seas, crystal clear Adriatic waters, a haven for sailing. It is also overrun with tourists in July and August, but now it seems also in the so-called off season. There is no way now to avoid crowds, but driving and being able to get off the beaten path really helped.
  We have found the trip to Croatia more expensive than a month in Japan this time last year.  This was surprising.
  With northern Europeans now avoiding Egypt, Turkey, Tunisia, Greece, Armenia, Morocco and the immigrant situation on many borders in the Balkans, tourists are flocking here. Mark tell us when he traveled this coast in 1974, it was cheap as borsht. Those days are long gone, like Yugoslavia.
  We saw few Canadian and US travellers. They are probably all on the cruise boats and travel in groups in the cities. We saw many, many Asian travellers, also in shoals and droves - although individual travellers from Singapore, Korea, Malaysia, Japan seem to venture out alone now.
  The mayor of Dubrovnik has declared their intention of somehow limiting tourists in the city and this would be good. I could not recommend tourists to go there now, but we know people who have enjoyed it this year. It is a jewel of a city no doubt, with interesting historical buildings and rich cultural heritage. It is nice to sit on the boulevard for a coffee but at $10 a pop, we can live without it. The hand is out for every little thing, and what seems a good deal turns out to be really rather shoddy and sub standard.
  We found the smaller historic walled cities much more attractive and welcoming, with restauranteurs bending over backwards to bring you in, offer free liqueurs after dinner, etc. without a cover charge. And I believe the northern and southern Dalmation islands have a lot to offer, even though we only experienced one of them for 3 days.
  There are no sandy beaches, beaches are all pebbles. But crystal clear water even where many boats are parked, is the norm.
  Even small towns charge to park.
  The coastal area and islands definitely look to close down mid October until May. Services are slim to non existent then.
  We are told Croatians tend to take holiday after the other tourists have left in October.
  Twenty years later, signs and memories of the 'homeland war' are still apparent. Although we saw very few veiled women anywhere in Croatia, the Bosnian presence is there, but resented in places. There are a few shells lodged in historic building walls, left as a memory of what transpired. Croatia and Hungary are still being castigated by the EU for non-aceptance of their share of immigrants, so this may change.
  The people we met everywhere were gracious, hospitable, welcoming and friendly. There were absolutely no security or safety issues anywhere, day or night.

RETURN TO ZAGREB - AND MORE RAIN! - THEN LONDON

October 5 dawns sunny then a few clouds and hint of a shower through the hills. It is time to say farewell to the beautiful Croatian coast, so we drag out the experience by taking the slow coast route up past gorgeous islands, hidden villages in bays, red roofed walled towns. We follow the inland toll road  through flat rich agricultural market gardening type land, into the mountains with trees starting to turn cooler. Its an easy drive and into Zagreb back to the Accor hotel. And the big repack for flying again!
  It's still warm, 23 ad windy and a change of weather is on the way. A return to the nice Boban restaurant for Fall favourites, pumpkin soup, duck confit and some good local white and red wines.
  Next morning dawns grey, dull and pouring rain. It's a couple of blocks to our car so we schlep tow small  bags through the puddles and bring the car back to load our main suitcase.
   First we arrive at the Cargo airport, fortunately only 2km down the road from the new terminal. They have not yet figured out how to deal with passengers so our thought of having breakfast is scuppered as we take most of the 2 hours there in lines. We finally grab a coffee and croissant (yogurt for the plane) at noon and are almost last to board - we think. It is not a full plane and we have a set between us for the 2.5 hour flight. Not so. Just before we are supposed to take off, some connecting passengers run on and - yup, one is between us.
  Unfortunately, of a Beirut tour group of about 50, some of them don't make it through security in time. So we are delayed 1.5 hours as we find and remove their luggage. WE could have waited for them after all! The pilot makes up an hour of the time and we land at Heathrow and are through immigration in a mere half hour, not like the 1.5 hours when we arrived from Canada. Terminal 2 is a nice newish affair. Surprise! Anne & Graeme have come to meet us, but so have Dave and Shelagh so we have a merry homecoming over coffee before being driven back to Chiswick to stay at Mary's for 6 days. Mary & Ivan are both away but we are happy to have our home-from-home in Chiswick.

Monday, October 23, 2017

RETURN OF THE PRODIGALS TO TROGIR

  We are welcomed back to the Villa Tudor in Trogir like long-lost friends. Everyone who stays here is given the same warm welcome and farewell, the family look after us all like family. WE head out for home made pasta and beers at the famous Kristian resto and back for desert and coffee at Davon, our favourite dessert spot. A beautiful sunset finishes our day.
  Next day dawns sunny and hot. Off we go up the coast north with beautiful views of small uninhabited, undeveloped islands, up over scenic karst limestone formations and into the water wonderland that is Krka National Park. It is a lovely 2m walk over grassy walkways and boardwalks past multiple stunning falls and beautiful pools. A few brave bikinied women pose for photos and improve the view!
  Our last night there, we find the HOtel Korsal for seafood salad, grilled bream and more lovely wines and liqueurs.  Then of course, stroll to our favourite dessert shop for ale, coffee and. A cleansing ale for Ted! It is so nice to be able to walk to restaurants at all these places and not drive anywhere.
  We are sad to leave our newe friends in Trogir and can’t say enough about the amazing hospitality we have received here in Trogir and especially at Villa Tudor.

POOR KID GOAT

Our lst day in Korcula, we book into the nearby village restaurant for their famed kid goat cooked under peka (metal dome over the BBQ.) We are told arrive promptly at 1:30 or the goat will be overcooked. It’ a lovely drive up through the pine forest to a village, surrounded by small market gardens. The family who run the restaurant don’t speak English it their staff do. WE while away a pleasant hour or two, but Td is still feeling sorry for the kid goat! So it’s not a resounding success. Its still busy everywhere but we’re told it will all shut down Oct 21 til the beginning of May.
  It takes 2 ferries to leave our beautiful home on Korcula, 15 minuets to the Pelejsac peninsula and then an hour back to the mainland, skirting north and so avoiding entering Bosnia again.
  WE squeezed in a winery visit crossing the peninsula and still get into a long ferry lineup, wondering if we will make it and hoping not to have to wait another 4 hours if we don’t.
  The ferry staff shoehorn an amazing amount of traffic onto the ferry and it’s a lovely sail across the peninsula, but no oysters this time!

HEAVENLY KORCULA

  Having heard and read about the southern Dalmatian island of Korcula, we rethink the rest o four trip to spend 3 days at a boutique hotel there on the seafront. It is everything we need at this point, walking distance into the old walled town, spectacular views every direction and warm, friendly hotel staff, catering to our every need.  
  We are in the little capital walled city of the island of Korcula north of Dubrovnik, south of Split. It is supposedly the birthplace of Marco Polo so we are Marco Polo-ed everywhere we look. The little eponymous resto in town is good for a seafood feed, but we have to rap up warm to get there, it is really cooling off in the evenings now here on the last.
  They are had 3 months of summer of record-breaking heat, 30-40 degrees every day, and the bushes, trees, even palms have died. Everyone is craving rain, we are not.
  First day here, took a drive to top of island and back, looking for a nice place to lunch and wineries to taste wine. No on both counts. Closing down for the season everywhere - but lively in town. 
  Gorgeous views at the top of the ridges of islands all around in clear blue sea, lovely little villagers scattered in the hills and vineyards everywhere, on the steepest slopes so all hand picked. Zig zag roads so Ted is happy with hairpins and hardly anyone else on roads. A few brave cyclists.  No rain today, clouds rolled over but that's OK.
  We visit a few wineries but they are really quite small-town compared with other wine regions we have visited. At one we have to be ‘expected” but when we get there, it is full of one boisterous large group of young people and a German couple sitting 2 tables away chain smoking! Hardly the ideal for a wine tasting, $15 and a meager hint of 3 wines, which is all they produce. Roll on Chile and Argentina next spring...  
  We have dinner back in Korcula on the roof of a building jus under the bell tower. Ted finally tries the black squid risotto, and declares it a big success. I send my fish back and then tackle a replacement plate of spiny scampi. We are wrapped up well for the night damp air now and I return for a nice soak in my bathtub at this lovely little hotel.

  

DUBROVNIK DAY 4 THEN PELIJSAC PENINSULA

We had a nice afternoon, in sun, clouds threatened but didn’t spatter on us. Did the rest of the museums first then a boat trip to nearby Lokrum island, pine clad with an 11C monastery. Nice jaunt. 
  Now black overhead, what do you think is coming...Will go to the recommended resto below our apt and don't have far to run if the heavens open again. What did we do to deserve all this bad weather??? We need a Buddhist monk to bless us again...Ted should never have lost that bracelet...
 Since we are leaving, next day dawned sunny and totally blue sky. A lovely day for a drive up the peninsula to the island.
  Ted picks up his usual bagful at bakery and an hour into the trip up the peninsula, we come across Croatia’s oyster heaven. We will stuff ourselves with them and as much of the local good white wine as we can bearing in mind somebody is driving...
  Memories of Arcachon...
  Yesterday a seafood platter for dinner, a whole sea bream (Dorado), langoustine, shrimp, prawn (yes one each, huge) mussels tons of garlic and oil. And finally fresh veggies, green beans and boiled potatoes. The oil here is really lovely - famous but Ted says we can't haul any back...or the white truffles which are in season here now but ridiculously expensive. 
  There is a small veggie and flower market here every day. I bought flowers first day so our apt has smelled lovely the whole time. Yesterday a lovely native market, ladies and men in their trad gear and lots of lovely food and wine and liquor products. I bought a nice piece of traditional embroidery from one lady here. In Slovakia I bought some beautiful lace, a bell for my Xmas tree and a bird for bird-sitter Nicole. 
  Ted got a note from Mark today. He traveled down this coast in 1971 and it was all dirt cheap. He commented on how Europe has become vey popular and as a result really expensive now. 
  Talked to people at the bar yesterday (bar hanging off the cliff over the water with views out over the sea and the two big cruise ships that came in yesterday!!!) They commented it is all Toronto prices, no bargains here. He was a lawyer from Toronto so I guess not too worried about prices.

MORE DUBROVNIK

Yeah, if this weather wasn't so horrid it would be hilarious. We holed up in our apt for an hour or two after the storm then ventured out for an excellent dinner. (Whole grilled sea bass and grilled baby squids.) Rain stopped but wind was roaring along these narrow alleys. We found a table indoors, resto at the recommendation of Brian & Gail who were here a couple of weeks back. Good food, good wine, good service and more free slivovich! We must be doing something right when the waiters keep taking us under their wings. Hope for sun tomorrow. 
  Only Fox and Al Jezeera news here, (no BBC) -  time to read our books.
 We are enjoying the change of culture here. The Croatians are lovely people, can't believe how tall many of them are - I feel like a midget. 
  Off to have a long hot shower and my book in bed....we are getting old...we had planned to watch sunset from a bar on the outside wall of the old city but rain stopped play!! 
  We did have hot sunny weather this morning and early afternoon, and did the city wall walk, which was spectacular. Took loads of photos and will have to edit those soon. 
  Also ran into a very knowledgeable waiter tonight who gave us a list of wines to try as we drive up the wine peninsula and on to the island that is his home - and a big wine producer here. Interestingly one of the major Zinfandel producers in Napa valley was Mike Grgich, who was from Croatia originally. He went to US and produced better wines there - but there is a strong Grgich production here still. We will enjoy following that up. We met him many years ago and have always loved his now very expensive wines.

DUBROVNIK - A ZOO

  Dubrovnik is a total zoo. The only redeeming factor - we are right inside the city walls and can walk back and forth to everything. Sun at first yesterday then holed up in a cheapo resto at 4pm. Heavy rain ensued!
  Absolutely  no traffic in old town zone so lots of walking. Slippery shiny cobbles 
  Not bad daily special meal of salad, fish, dessert and two free glasses of their pear liquor ($20 food, and $16 for 2 beers).) Interesting even there they had cover charge of $2 each - apparently for bread basket (not touched!) oil and vinegar.
 Went to lovely little market yesterday so have flowers on my dining table now. Bit more like home.
  Ted just got back from walking to the fantastic bakery with various croissants (esp ham and cheese for brekkie.) I brought NescafĂ© decaf from Liz's - unheard of here! But Ted found coffee and milk at the small grocery store in the old town yesterday so he is brewing away. We have a small balcony so enjoy breakfast outside but no sun yet! Cloudy and breezy.
  He had to fight his way through the old ladies at the grocery store trying to decide what to buy...decided to give it a miss til later. The old town really is a living city,  the kids go to school, I hear them taking off in the morning. Although old, the apt is well set up, and  the plumbing and double windows very efficient and keep out noise.
  It is definitely party town here, music everywhere at night, jazz, pop, etc everyone out on the street strolling. We had lunch/dinner early, came home, then went back out for the stroll. Nice to be able to do that so easily.

FROM TROGIR TO DUBROVNIK

It’s a very scenic drive either up through the Dalmatian mountains or along the spectacular coastline from Trogir to Dubrovnik. Missing the turnoff at Split, we went up into the mountains at first, craggy, dry, mountains with the occasional village tucked away in a valley. A spectacular drop from the ridge to glistening Adriatic towns, some tucked into azure sandy bays, and towns hanging over steep cliffs down to the sea. 
  It’s a huge resort area with a short 7k stretch that is Bosnia, no customs or border problems there, but our passports stamped on re-entry to Croatia all the same.
  We drive down  through the touristy riviera area, past the very fertile Neretva Delta with orange groves and hoards of produce stalls along the road, and  increasing touristtour buses. 
  Into Dubrovnik, we can see where we are headed but there is an hour traffic jam to get there. Parking is chaotic. This is not looking to be such a good idea...

DUBROVNIK. AND PARKING NIGHTMARE

   A gorgeous day yesterday to drive the Dalmatian coast from Trogir to Dubrovnik. But oh what a zoo when we got here at 4pm. Traffic jams everywhere, no parking. Found out it will be $160 a day at the lot close to the gate where we had to enter. 
  We found out later it is  $20 a day out at the port so we paid for 1.5 hrs, found our apt, drove out to the port,and took a cab back ($16). All the clothes I brought for summer weather for our long stay in Dubrovnik are still in the suitcase in the car! We will manage here with one change of clothes for 4 days. 
  We are booked in here for 4 days plus 1 (have to move to another apartment) so we will be pulling the plug after the 4 days and cutting our losses. On top of that, rain forecast for tomorrow and Friday!! We had hoped to drive to Montenegro but will give that a miss if it's raining too! Sheesh. So much bad weather this trip.
  Thank goodness we repacked not to bring our suitcase, and only brought two carry-on bags to drag through the cobbles and up steps and steps to our apt, which is very big!
  We are rethinking the rest of our time in Croatia and will try to stay on one of the islands, probably Korcula, and I'll start looking for a place there. Vineyards, just up Ted's alley.

CHARMING WALLED OLD TOWN TROGIR

 Our friends have told us to stay at Trogir, rather than Split so after a harrowing day in rain, it finally eases off, we drop down, down down over the mountains to finally see the Dalmatian coast. Cloudy, then the sun appears! We have run up $70 in toll charges today.
  It’s busy with tourists, buses, large and small boats parked all along the malecon, died with palm trees, cafes and restaurants. We cross two bridges to find our hotel on the second island. Our hotel is on the busy, noisy waterfront but the old stone walls hide a modern hotel, beautifully run and set up by the warm, gracious hosts at Villa Tudor, aria and Buck (and son Tudor). Solid windows seal out the traffic noise, and when you open the window and shutters, the view is of a medieval town, all red roofs, bell towers, and white stone buildings.
  There is a wealth of restaurants tucked in every nook and cranny of the cobbled old town. Also gift shops, and the most amazing dessert/ice cream stores to rope you in on the way home from dinner. It’s a labyrinth and we need the Google maps app to find our way back to some of the places!
  We are plagued with showers but enjoy exploring all along the coastline, the little Kastelas, a sprig of small towns all the way into Split.  Fancy yachts are parked along the waterway and there are plenty of good restaurants to tempt the expensive looking clients in.
  We have booked to return to Trogir and find we can ow return here. And after OCtober the rates are half so we will stay at this lovely boutique hotel again for E50 a night, plus E8 each for a great breakfast, cooked to order.

THE ISTRIA PENINSULA - PULA - ALMOST ITALY


 Just east of Trieste is the border with Croatia and we have a pleasant drive through beautiful country with lovely red roofed towns and rolling farmland and hills to the Istria Peninsula, famous for Roman remains, ducal estates (Tito liked it near Ostrika?) and Malvasia wine. Not sweet, definitely a food wine. 
  We check into the funky Scarlata Hotel and off to the famous Roman Amphitheatre. Dining at the recommended Amphitheatre Hotel restaurant we are almost he only diners there. Amuse Boucher, fish soup, basss, salad, chocolate cake, the local Malvasia wine and free plum brandy sets us back $100. People start streaming past the window, later we have dessert on the patio and the crowd thickens. What is going on?
  One of the most famous 10k races in Croatia happens tonight, finishing in true Roman fashion at the Amphitheater. We are part of the buzz and its fun! Beer is being dispenses behind the gladiator pens, families, running clubs, teams ahve come from all over Croatia.
  There are lots of budget travelers here. We have a tiny balcony but our view is of seedy little streets and broken steps, but our car is fine and safe, parked on the street with bags and stuff visible in it. 
  We ever had any security or safety concerns the whole time in Croatia, or in fact, any of the places we visited. I had half expected Russian-mafia types stealing bags, etc. but everywhere we went, we were told, don’t worry about anything, nobody will touch it.
  Next morning we are set to drive half way down Croatia. First we see dark threatening clouds. Then th heavens open we have a YUGE (Trump-style) hail storm. The toll road is closed for about half an hour. Ted retreats down a private driveway, ignoring the signs, and gets as far under a tree as possible. Fortunately, the car doesn’t suffer any damage. 
  WE drive the 500km back up around the Istria Peninsula, miss all the views to the heavenly little northern Dalmatian islands, down very scenic country between two national parks in torrential rain. Didn’t see a thing.
  There are nice tourist travel stops on the motorways and toll highways. However, the cafes only have one or two washrooms for women. Dying for a pee, we stop at one just as a bus load of other tourists arrive. It takes half an hour to pee! Fortunately I have kept a pear and croissant from breakfast and polish off a package of cheese crackers from my store. Ted is not into lunch or stopping!

MORE ZAGREB..

  Zagreb, is a lovely capital, touristy city with many steps to the scenic historic top, but a funicular to get you there. Being the capital, it also has lovely historic government buildings and not so many tour groups either. A lovely fruit/veg market, I pick up fresh figs and lovely ripe pears. We find beautiful olive oils on our trip but sadly can’t haul it back. But the other market here also has huge hams (tastings everywhere), honeys and other tempting comestibles.
  The second night we go to the resto recommended in our guide owned by a famous Croatian soccer player. We book at 6pm and there is no one there. By the time we leave the place is jumping, full of happy diners. Excellent food, wine and service here. And large groups of sporty looking men..
   We have skipped hotel breakfasts, they are vast, and unfortunately for once we have no coffee maker in our room, unusual. But we have found the fanstastic bakery down the road for croissants and pastries and coffee, so Ted does his morning run.

  It is a nice day to leave, the sun is out, sort of, and it’s an easy 2 block walk to our car and on our way out of town on the big good roads.

THE RENTAL CAR..

  We have rented a car for our 2 weeks here from Europecar, whom we have used several times before and found to be very good.
  The 2nd night we are here, I get out my rental papers and - oops - we are due to pick up the car a day earlier and I forgot to change it when I decided to stay in Bratislava 2 days not one! We have half an hour to find the pickup spot, but magically, it’s the Sheraton which is at the top of the road our hotel is in! We puff up there, and the nice young agent Vedra tells us “that was for yesterday, I don’t have the car here now. Just wait here.”
  We cool our heels for about half an hour watching all the smart business types here for conferences - meeting and greeting, strutting their stuff, being very important on the cell phones. Vedra returns, he has a car for us, same as we booked, it has not been properly prepared (only half full of gas) but it’s parked only minutes away. Not only that, it is parked in a lot for free and we can leave it there.  Instead of returning it there to him, we can simply drive to airport (half an hour) and avoid any parking charges at all. We are up for that.

  It is a brand new car, and having refused the $10 a day GPS, we find it is in there and he says, I will just leave it working. It is a godsend, but also backed by my Google Maps (my UK SIM car and service have proved absolutely invaluable on this trip and I have not used the 1G a month either as we have great wifi everywhere.)

ZAGREB

.
Our hotel is a busy business/tourist hotel on the tram line into the lovely lively capital city centre. A buzz of young professionals, tourists, business types, and smart. The first night it is cold to walk into the city centre, not finding the resto they said was close by and then waiting half an hour for a table at one of the others listed in our Lonely Planet. Locals are all out in force, quaffing lots of wine, huge meals, sumptuous desserts (they are everywhere on this trip!)
  Quite a few tourists seem to be here too. We are definitely now in meat country and although we see lots of lovely fresh vegetables all over Croatia, few of them appear on dinner plates!
  Bad news, everyone smokes. It is a vibrant outdoor cafe society but everyone smokes outdoors so you are sucking it in even strolling around past all the busy cafes.
  I am soooo glad I have brought my (skiing!) merino wool hoodie and down vest. The air seems damp and evenings definitely cool. We learn to take the tram back and forth to our hotel instead of walking it. Although the first ight walking back, we saw many big noisy parties a huge gala event at the art gallery with many beautiful young people dressed to the nines with their Jimmy Choo shoes and designer label suits and dresses.

  These Croatians are all so TALL. I feel like a midget. They are tall and handsome people. And clearly there is $$$ here in the capital city, even though along the road from our hotel is what i obviously a drop in centre to feed needs/homeless which we pass on the way to our car

BRATISLAVA TO ZAGREB - 4 COUNTRIES, ONE DAY..

  I have again wisely booked on line before we left a car and driver to take us from Bratislava through Slovakia Austria, Slovenia and into Zagreb, capital of Croatia. 
Team Daytrip advise me that Filip F will meet us at the hotel and deliver us to the hotel in Zagreb. It all works Lockett split well. He is a most knowledgeable resident of Bratislava and knows a better way to get our bags from the hotel to his comfortable BMW!
  We have arranged two stopoffs on the way, one in Graz, Austria and one in Ptuj (sounds like a spit!) in Slovenia. It is a sunny day for our drive, yeah!
  Graz is a charming town, with a lively market and downtown area, we enjoy a stroll around for an hour or so then resume our journey. Filip is a sailor, gets work in Rotterdam when he fancies sailing and works for the tour company otherwise. He is a really affable young man, a mine of really interesting information, anecdotes and jokes.
  Did you hear the one about the American who phoned a Russian and said:
“I hear it is 40 below over there!” 
”Oh, no, it’s not nearly that cold, only about -25.”
“ I saw on the internet, -40”
“Oh you mean outside, not inside.”
  Ptuj has a lovely castle (more climbing, good for the legs and lungs all this touring) with folk displays. It has an important folk festival involving costumed dancers, some in bearlike skins. Famous for its lace, I buy two small beautiful pieces and we stop for, according to Filip the MOST expensive coffee…

  Billed as 7 hour journey, we actually take about 9 and arrive in Zagreb opposite the busy railway station in rush hour, and park a little way from the hotel, but Filip insists on bringing the bags for us.

BRATISLAVA - Capital of Slovakia


Next morning we open the drapes, and yes, pouring. We have waterproof jackets and umbrella but it’s hard manhandling them all with a suitcase and 33 rolling carry on bags too down through the cobbles. Fortunately the ferry to Bratislava runs practically at the bottom of our road on the canal and there is covered waiting. However, the boat is half an hour late.
  Ted was told to book as Tuesday is seniors day and half price. Less than a dozen bedraggled customers share the whole boat with us. We sail down the Blue Danube. Everything is grey, foggy and wet. Little fishing huts pass by occasionally but no splendid shlosses. 
  We grab a cab on landing in Bratislava only to find our hotel is down the bottom of another pedestrian cobbled street (very charming but hell pulling cases down it!) Our friends Liz & Rod have stayed at the Sklaritz hotel so we are heartened it will be good.
  It is a listed as a historic hotel and residence. In fact, we have an apartment about the size of our house. An enormous bathroom and, joy oh joy, a huge bathtub. I am in heaven! We are warmly welcomed and even though our stay is mostly in rain, we thoroughly enjoy this capital city of Slovakia.
  We find a lovely cosy little resto just round the corner from our hotel and enjoy two nights there with lovely food, wines and friendly service, and free chasers after dinner. I believe we had duck confit both nights as it was so good the first time.

  Venturing a bit further than the pedestrian way, we find the rest of the city dull and typical of post-communist architecture, I find a fantastic garlic soup at a modern brewery (Ted suffered from that for days…) and a handsome castle on the river’s edge worth a walk around.

RUBBER DUCKIE LAND

Austrtia seems to be taken with rubber duckies. We have one in our hotel bathroom - but no bath! He is a Mozart duckie so I think I’ll take him home with us, happy memories.
  Our extra da i Vienna we take the bus about an hour out of town up up up o the Vienna Woods, of orchestral fame. It’s a beautiful view of the city but it’s cloudy then - rain. So not much joy in taking photos. We’ve heard about a great restaurant up there but we take a look and decide it’s too cold for a modern smell and glass lace, and return to the cosy Gretchen Bells for dinner. I stand under the hot shower and wrap in the bathroom and socks to warm up enough to sleep! Storms and rain are forecast in Croatia! Oh joy!

MORE MOZART!

Salzburg is truly Mozart country. And is obviously a lovely tourist city when it's not passing with rain...we did see the sun a few times but it made for soggy sightseeing. And never saw the alps behind it at all.
We attend a concert with a 1770 replica harpsichord in a small room of the magnificent Alte Residence, housing a priceless Hapsburg collection (much of it ecclesiastical art.)  WE also visit the Dom (cathedral) walk along the river and take a bus to the famed Augustine Blau Brewery. Not to orumbuctious, we quaff a few beeers, BBQ ribs, roast potatoes, ham off the bone, strudel and hearty potato salad. Walking back along the river, we enjoy a sunset at last and return to a hot shower to warm up again.

TRAINS IN AUSTRIA

  Having purchased an umbrella in London (how did we forget one??) we had to purchase another in Austria. Granted the first one was from the pound store and died fairly soon into use. But the second will always be a sweet reminder of Vienna because it is white and covered in musical notes. I have not tried to sign it yet…Maybe its ’Singing in the rain”?
  Returning to Vienna by train, it is a 2. Hour comfortable journey in the. Exec class seats, two each, room to move. However, the car is almost empty most of the way anyway! The hostess brings us nibbles and water and we could order a glass of bubbly or another libation if we wish. We don’t.
  We are booked into another Mercure just steps (up!!) from the last one for a night and return to the lovely resto we found on previous visit for another lovely cosy dinner.