Wednesday, October 25, 2017

CROATIA - FINAL THOUGHTS

  Croatia is a beautiful country, with a huge variety of terrain, mountains, woodland, forests, stunning waterfalls, azure seas, crystal clear Adriatic waters, a haven for sailing. It is also overrun with tourists in July and August, but now it seems also in the so-called off season. There is no way now to avoid crowds, but driving and being able to get off the beaten path really helped.
  We have found the trip to Croatia more expensive than a month in Japan this time last year.  This was surprising.
  With northern Europeans now avoiding Egypt, Turkey, Tunisia, Greece, Armenia, Morocco and the immigrant situation on many borders in the Balkans, tourists are flocking here. Mark tell us when he traveled this coast in 1974, it was cheap as borsht. Those days are long gone, like Yugoslavia.
  We saw few Canadian and US travellers. They are probably all on the cruise boats and travel in groups in the cities. We saw many, many Asian travellers, also in shoals and droves - although individual travellers from Singapore, Korea, Malaysia, Japan seem to venture out alone now.
  The mayor of Dubrovnik has declared their intention of somehow limiting tourists in the city and this would be good. I could not recommend tourists to go there now, but we know people who have enjoyed it this year. It is a jewel of a city no doubt, with interesting historical buildings and rich cultural heritage. It is nice to sit on the boulevard for a coffee but at $10 a pop, we can live without it. The hand is out for every little thing, and what seems a good deal turns out to be really rather shoddy and sub standard.
  We found the smaller historic walled cities much more attractive and welcoming, with restauranteurs bending over backwards to bring you in, offer free liqueurs after dinner, etc. without a cover charge. And I believe the northern and southern Dalmation islands have a lot to offer, even though we only experienced one of them for 3 days.
  There are no sandy beaches, beaches are all pebbles. But crystal clear water even where many boats are parked, is the norm.
  Even small towns charge to park.
  The coastal area and islands definitely look to close down mid October until May. Services are slim to non existent then.
  We are told Croatians tend to take holiday after the other tourists have left in October.
  Twenty years later, signs and memories of the 'homeland war' are still apparent. Although we saw very few veiled women anywhere in Croatia, the Bosnian presence is there, but resented in places. There are a few shells lodged in historic building walls, left as a memory of what transpired. Croatia and Hungary are still being castigated by the EU for non-aceptance of their share of immigrants, so this may change.
  The people we met everywhere were gracious, hospitable, welcoming and friendly. There were absolutely no security or safety issues anywhere, day or night.

RETURN TO ZAGREB - AND MORE RAIN! - THEN LONDON

October 5 dawns sunny then a few clouds and hint of a shower through the hills. It is time to say farewell to the beautiful Croatian coast, so we drag out the experience by taking the slow coast route up past gorgeous islands, hidden villages in bays, red roofed walled towns. We follow the inland toll road  through flat rich agricultural market gardening type land, into the mountains with trees starting to turn cooler. Its an easy drive and into Zagreb back to the Accor hotel. And the big repack for flying again!
  It's still warm, 23 ad windy and a change of weather is on the way. A return to the nice Boban restaurant for Fall favourites, pumpkin soup, duck confit and some good local white and red wines.
  Next morning dawns grey, dull and pouring rain. It's a couple of blocks to our car so we schlep tow small  bags through the puddles and bring the car back to load our main suitcase.
   First we arrive at the Cargo airport, fortunately only 2km down the road from the new terminal. They have not yet figured out how to deal with passengers so our thought of having breakfast is scuppered as we take most of the 2 hours there in lines. We finally grab a coffee and croissant (yogurt for the plane) at noon and are almost last to board - we think. It is not a full plane and we have a set between us for the 2.5 hour flight. Not so. Just before we are supposed to take off, some connecting passengers run on and - yup, one is between us.
  Unfortunately, of a Beirut tour group of about 50, some of them don't make it through security in time. So we are delayed 1.5 hours as we find and remove their luggage. WE could have waited for them after all! The pilot makes up an hour of the time and we land at Heathrow and are through immigration in a mere half hour, not like the 1.5 hours when we arrived from Canada. Terminal 2 is a nice newish affair. Surprise! Anne & Graeme have come to meet us, but so have Dave and Shelagh so we have a merry homecoming over coffee before being driven back to Chiswick to stay at Mary's for 6 days. Mary & Ivan are both away but we are happy to have our home-from-home in Chiswick.

Monday, October 23, 2017

RETURN OF THE PRODIGALS TO TROGIR

  We are welcomed back to the Villa Tudor in Trogir like long-lost friends. Everyone who stays here is given the same warm welcome and farewell, the family look after us all like family. WE head out for home made pasta and beers at the famous Kristian resto and back for desert and coffee at Davon, our favourite dessert spot. A beautiful sunset finishes our day.
  Next day dawns sunny and hot. Off we go up the coast north with beautiful views of small uninhabited, undeveloped islands, up over scenic karst limestone formations and into the water wonderland that is Krka National Park. It is a lovely 2m walk over grassy walkways and boardwalks past multiple stunning falls and beautiful pools. A few brave bikinied women pose for photos and improve the view!
  Our last night there, we find the HOtel Korsal for seafood salad, grilled bream and more lovely wines and liqueurs.  Then of course, stroll to our favourite dessert shop for ale, coffee and. A cleansing ale for Ted! It is so nice to be able to walk to restaurants at all these places and not drive anywhere.
  We are sad to leave our newe friends in Trogir and can’t say enough about the amazing hospitality we have received here in Trogir and especially at Villa Tudor.

POOR KID GOAT

Our lst day in Korcula, we book into the nearby village restaurant for their famed kid goat cooked under peka (metal dome over the BBQ.) We are told arrive promptly at 1:30 or the goat will be overcooked. It’ a lovely drive up through the pine forest to a village, surrounded by small market gardens. The family who run the restaurant don’t speak English it their staff do. WE while away a pleasant hour or two, but Td is still feeling sorry for the kid goat! So it’s not a resounding success. Its still busy everywhere but we’re told it will all shut down Oct 21 til the beginning of May.
  It takes 2 ferries to leave our beautiful home on Korcula, 15 minuets to the Pelejsac peninsula and then an hour back to the mainland, skirting north and so avoiding entering Bosnia again.
  WE squeezed in a winery visit crossing the peninsula and still get into a long ferry lineup, wondering if we will make it and hoping not to have to wait another 4 hours if we don’t.
  The ferry staff shoehorn an amazing amount of traffic onto the ferry and it’s a lovely sail across the peninsula, but no oysters this time!

HEAVENLY KORCULA

  Having heard and read about the southern Dalmatian island of Korcula, we rethink the rest o four trip to spend 3 days at a boutique hotel there on the seafront. It is everything we need at this point, walking distance into the old walled town, spectacular views every direction and warm, friendly hotel staff, catering to our every need.  
  We are in the little capital walled city of the island of Korcula north of Dubrovnik, south of Split. It is supposedly the birthplace of Marco Polo so we are Marco Polo-ed everywhere we look. The little eponymous resto in town is good for a seafood feed, but we have to rap up warm to get there, it is really cooling off in the evenings now here on the last.
  They are had 3 months of summer of record-breaking heat, 30-40 degrees every day, and the bushes, trees, even palms have died. Everyone is craving rain, we are not.
  First day here, took a drive to top of island and back, looking for a nice place to lunch and wineries to taste wine. No on both counts. Closing down for the season everywhere - but lively in town. 
  Gorgeous views at the top of the ridges of islands all around in clear blue sea, lovely little villagers scattered in the hills and vineyards everywhere, on the steepest slopes so all hand picked. Zig zag roads so Ted is happy with hairpins and hardly anyone else on roads. A few brave cyclists.  No rain today, clouds rolled over but that's OK.
  We visit a few wineries but they are really quite small-town compared with other wine regions we have visited. At one we have to be ‘expected” but when we get there, it is full of one boisterous large group of young people and a German couple sitting 2 tables away chain smoking! Hardly the ideal for a wine tasting, $15 and a meager hint of 3 wines, which is all they produce. Roll on Chile and Argentina next spring...  
  We have dinner back in Korcula on the roof of a building jus under the bell tower. Ted finally tries the black squid risotto, and declares it a big success. I send my fish back and then tackle a replacement plate of spiny scampi. We are wrapped up well for the night damp air now and I return for a nice soak in my bathtub at this lovely little hotel.

  

DUBROVNIK DAY 4 THEN PELIJSAC PENINSULA

We had a nice afternoon, in sun, clouds threatened but didn’t spatter on us. Did the rest of the museums first then a boat trip to nearby Lokrum island, pine clad with an 11C monastery. Nice jaunt. 
  Now black overhead, what do you think is coming...Will go to the recommended resto below our apt and don't have far to run if the heavens open again. What did we do to deserve all this bad weather??? We need a Buddhist monk to bless us again...Ted should never have lost that bracelet...
 Since we are leaving, next day dawned sunny and totally blue sky. A lovely day for a drive up the peninsula to the island.
  Ted picks up his usual bagful at bakery and an hour into the trip up the peninsula, we come across Croatia’s oyster heaven. We will stuff ourselves with them and as much of the local good white wine as we can bearing in mind somebody is driving...
  Memories of Arcachon...
  Yesterday a seafood platter for dinner, a whole sea bream (Dorado), langoustine, shrimp, prawn (yes one each, huge) mussels tons of garlic and oil. And finally fresh veggies, green beans and boiled potatoes. The oil here is really lovely - famous but Ted says we can't haul any back...or the white truffles which are in season here now but ridiculously expensive. 
  There is a small veggie and flower market here every day. I bought flowers first day so our apt has smelled lovely the whole time. Yesterday a lovely native market, ladies and men in their trad gear and lots of lovely food and wine and liquor products. I bought a nice piece of traditional embroidery from one lady here. In Slovakia I bought some beautiful lace, a bell for my Xmas tree and a bird for bird-sitter Nicole. 
  Ted got a note from Mark today. He traveled down this coast in 1971 and it was all dirt cheap. He commented on how Europe has become vey popular and as a result really expensive now. 
  Talked to people at the bar yesterday (bar hanging off the cliff over the water with views out over the sea and the two big cruise ships that came in yesterday!!!) They commented it is all Toronto prices, no bargains here. He was a lawyer from Toronto so I guess not too worried about prices.

MORE DUBROVNIK

Yeah, if this weather wasn't so horrid it would be hilarious. We holed up in our apt for an hour or two after the storm then ventured out for an excellent dinner. (Whole grilled sea bass and grilled baby squids.) Rain stopped but wind was roaring along these narrow alleys. We found a table indoors, resto at the recommendation of Brian & Gail who were here a couple of weeks back. Good food, good wine, good service and more free slivovich! We must be doing something right when the waiters keep taking us under their wings. Hope for sun tomorrow. 
  Only Fox and Al Jezeera news here, (no BBC) -  time to read our books.
 We are enjoying the change of culture here. The Croatians are lovely people, can't believe how tall many of them are - I feel like a midget. 
  Off to have a long hot shower and my book in bed....we are getting old...we had planned to watch sunset from a bar on the outside wall of the old city but rain stopped play!! 
  We did have hot sunny weather this morning and early afternoon, and did the city wall walk, which was spectacular. Took loads of photos and will have to edit those soon. 
  Also ran into a very knowledgeable waiter tonight who gave us a list of wines to try as we drive up the wine peninsula and on to the island that is his home - and a big wine producer here. Interestingly one of the major Zinfandel producers in Napa valley was Mike Grgich, who was from Croatia originally. He went to US and produced better wines there - but there is a strong Grgich production here still. We will enjoy following that up. We met him many years ago and have always loved his now very expensive wines.